Five Chileans summit Fitz Roy in January

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Photo: Patricio DíazPhoto: Patricio Díaz
 
 
By Antonia González
Translation by Tracey Carro
 
Fitz Roy is an imposing rock massif on the border between Chile and Argentina, characterized as one of the most vertical and polished summits in Patagonia. Hundreds of climbers arrive here each season to test their technique and ascend its different routes. To date, not many Chileans have been able to reach the summit of this majestic peak that enchants with its dimensions, huge snowfields and magnificent views.
 
On January 27th, five Chilean friends and climbing enthusiasts reached the summit of this mountain, in a very challenging traverse that tested the limits of their abilities. Here we tell you how Nicolás Tapia, Miguel Boehm, Francisco Galilea, Bernardo Concha and Patricio Díaz accomplished this incredible feat, which they completed in three days with just a day and a half of ascent. 
 
It all started a few days prior, when they completed the route known as Mate, Porro y Todo lo Demás, on the Goretta Pillar of Fitz Roy. It would be followed some days later, with the opening of a new weather window, by an attempt to reach the summit of the mountain. Plans changed slightly because two members of the team showed Covid symptoms, so they decided to ascend via the Affanasieff route. “The expedition was nearly cancelled due to two of our party, Negro and Quisco, falling ill with fever and respiratory problems. We decided to assess during the hike, see how they progressed, and then determine whether or not they were fit to climb," says Tapia.
 
In this way, they started the approach at the Río Eléctrico parking lot, some 10 km (6 miles) from the town center. From there, they hiked for close to four hours through dense lenga forest and open grasslands, as well as facing a final steep uphill up to the base camp "Piedras Negras."
 
 
Bernardo and Quisco looking for the Goretta pillar line. Photo: Patricio DíazBernardo and Quisco looking for the Goretta pillar line. Photo: Patricio Díaz
 
 
Before sunrise at El Cuadrado Pass, looking at the west ridge of the Fitz in the distance. Photo: Patricio DíazBefore sunrise at El Cuadrado Pass, looking at the west ridge of the Fitz in the distance. Photo: Patricio Díaz
 
 
They began the first day of ascent at 3 a.m. to reach El Cuadrado Pass, from where they could see the west side of the valley and discern the silhouette of the mountain. “Around 8:30 a.m. we were already on the first shoulder of rock, after some 200 metres (656 feet) of easy climbing. Here we made our first stop and had breakfast with a panoramic view over the glacier, Cerro Torre up close and the ice field in the distance," says Tapia. 
 

“Around 8:30 a.m. we were already on the first shoulder of rock, after some 200 metres (656 feet) of easy climbing. Here we made our first stop and had breakfast with a panoramic view over the glacier, Cerro Torre up close and the ice field in the distance”

 
The route they followed involves around 1600 meters (5249 feet) of ascent in total, of which only 500 meters (1640 feet) feature technical difficulty, with some vertical slabs and small holds. It was precisely in that section of the wall that the group came across other climbers who were attempting the same route. “Here we made our first mistake: we decided not to overtake them; we relaxed, we had something to eat, we took some photos and sunbathed a little," said Tapia. Nonetheless, they were moving at a very good pace, having climbed 500 meters (1640 feet) in under three hours.
 
The day of climbing on the west face of Fitz Roy was going incredibly well for the five friends, and with the good fortune of clear weather they had a panoramic view over the Chilean ice field. “We could see how in the horizon, beyond the mountainous chains, the ice blended into the sky, blurring the perspective."
 
 
 Quisco leaving the first plate run, with Campo de Hielo in the background. Photo: Patricio DíazQuisco leaving the first plate run, with Campo de Hielo in the background. Photo: Patricio Díaz
 
 
Although two of the friends were still suffering from a fever and feeling unwell, it was decided that all five of them would continue until the end. The route gifted them with an incredible sunset, and the twilight accompanied them on their way to their first bivouac. They could feel the temperature slowly dropping and the wind picking up. “We were pretty exhausted and dehydrated, but we had to keep going,” Tapia explained. When at 1:30 a.m. they finally arrived at the first bivouac, they were greeted by the surprise of it being covered in snow and crowded —the parties they had come across during the route.
 
“We had to improvise on a one square meter ledge, very exposed to the wind, and, there, all five of us settled in with our respective gear. That night we hardly slept, the discomfort and the wind wreaked havoc. By 6:00 a.m. with the first light, we were already having breakfast. We couldn’t quite believe it, but it was time to get going and set out on our climb," adds Tapia.
 

“We had to improvise on a one square metre ledge, very exposed to the wind, and, there, all five of us settled in with our respective gear. That night we hardly slept, the discomfort and the wind wreaked havoc. By 6:00 a.m. with the first light, we were already having breakfast. We couldn’t quite believe it, but it was time to get going and set out on our climb”

 
That next morning they encountered a scenario that they had not expected, something they had never seen before: three other parties were ready to begin climbing, and since they all set off at the same time, they shared the route with them during almost 200 meters (656 feet). “Obviously, there is nothing strange about coming across other parties on the mountain. What was unusual was that we were all shoulder to shoulder, almost competing to take the lead. Everyone wanted to begin early in order not to lose hours of sunlight and reach the summit and the rappels for that day,"  he added.
 
 
Before the slabs, taking advantage of the other climbers' slow pace to sunbathe and take photos. Photo: Patricio DíazBefore the slabs, taking advantage of the other climbers' slow pace to sunbathe and take photos. Photo: Patricio Díaz
 
 
As was to be expected, Nico continues, a massive entangling of ropes ensued. People were climbing over each other, gear kept falling off, and those less experienced were holding on to the backpacks of the better climbers. “A situation never seen before, at least by me, a sort of bumper car race in the mountain. Fortunately, we reached the more vertical and difficult sections, over which we were moving faster than the Trans-Andean, and from there we were able to continue along a clear route," he explains.
 
The last section up to the top was easier terrain, which they simul-climbed. By 14:00 h they had already reached the summit of Fitz Roy. For several minutes the climbers were overcome with happiness and emotion. “We couldn’t believe it, it was a very special moment for each one of us, each one with their story and personal motivations for being there. Negro couldn’t hold back the tears and he let them flow proudly."
 
They lingered gazing at the sweeping and magical views over this incredible mountain range comprising the different spires (Guillaumet, Mermoz, Val Biois, Poincenot, Rafael Juárez, Saint-Exupéry, among others), the lakes, and the Argentinian steppe.
 
“We stayed for approximately 45 minutes on the summit, 45 minutes that represent a milestone in our lives and that will forever be engraved in our minds. But we had to leave, we needed to find our descent route and start getting down as soon as possible. The descent was long and, with high winds forecasted for the following day, it promised more than one problem," said Tapia.
 

“We stayed for approximately 45 minutes on the summit, 45 minutes that represent a milestone in our lives and that will forever be engraved in our minds. But we had to leave, we needed to find our descent route and start getting down as soon as possible. The descent was long and, with high winds forecasted for the following day, it promised more than one problem”

 
 
Photo: Patricio DíazPhoto: Patricio Díaz
 
 
 Bernardo negotiating the crevasses on his way back to base camp. Photo: Patricio DíazBernardo negotiating the crevasses on his way back to base camp. Photo: Patricio Díaz
 
 
The descent started with a nearly six hour rappel down towards the Goretta Pillar, on the north side of Mount Fitz Roy, which they reached at 22:00 h, in twilight. Here, once again, they improvised a bivouac in less than optimal conditions. Once again, none of them slept.
 
The next day, amid the first lights, they started the descent. The wind picked up earlier than forecasted, making the 20 rappels down to firm ground more complex. Once they reached the ice gully they started the descent to the glacier. It took five more rappels to get out of the snow and loose rock and finally reach secure ground.
 
They arrived in El Chaltén around 3:30 a.m., hungry and tired, but with the emotion still raw and the experience alive in their hearts. “That night we celebrated life, friendship, and the freedom of following one’s dreams no matter how crazy or distant they may seem. The world remained exactly the same, nothing would change due to our small feat. It was something completely personal. In the end, we named the climb “Modo Fiesta” (“Party Mode”) because, regardless of the complexity of our situation, we never stopped laughing or enjoying ourselves on the vertical,” says Tapia. 
 
 
 
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